Has anyone removed a Bigsby shaft?

[Lucky Jim]

Some background: My G6128 CLFG’s Bigsby has not operated smoothly since buying it used a couple of years ago, By comparison exactly the same B3 Bigsby fitted to the G6128 53VS that I owned was very smooth. Today I had time to investigate. After removing the whole arm assembly from the shaft I found that the shaft rotated freely. However, when it put pressure on the shaft to simulate string pull it rotated less smoothly and had a sound of dry metal-on-metal, i.e. no lubricant. I could see that someone appears to have lubricated the shaft bearings with light machine oil that has left a black messy residue.

It seems I have little option other than to remove and clean the shaft then clean the bearings and repack them with the correct grease. To remove the shaft the string pins have to be pulled from it. I would imagine they are a tight push fit. Has anyone here removed them? They appear to be tubular section so it would need care not to crush or bend them. Once the pins are removed will they push back in again fairly easily after the shaft and bearings are dealt with? I’ve not found anyone selling Bigsby string pins so if I damaged them……….

Any advise would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Jim

 

[Back in Black]

Some background: My G6128 CLFG’s Bigsby has not operated smoothly since buying it used a couple of years ago, By comparison exactly the same B3 Bigsby fitted to the G6128 53VS that I owned was very smooth. Today I had time to investigate. After removing the whole arm assembly from the shaft I found that the shaft rotated freely. However, when it put pressure on the shaft to simulate string pull it rotated less smoothly and had a sound of dry metal-on-metal, i.e. no lubricant. I could see that someone appears to have lubricated the shaft bearings with light machine oil that has left a black messy residue.

It seems I have little option other than to remove and clean the shaft then clean the bearings and repack them with the correct grease. To remove the shaft the string pins have to be pulled from it. I would imagine they are a tight push fit. Has anyone here removed them? They appear to be tubular section so it would need care not to crush or bend them. Once the pins are removed will they push back in again fairly easily after the shaft and bearings are dealt with? I’ve not found anyone selling Bigsby string pins so if I damaged them……….

Any advise would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Jim

Hey Jim,

I've completely disassembled both B3 and B5's.

The main shaft (string attachment) has bearings on both sides. If the unit is a Genuine Bigsby, there should be no metal to metal scuffing.

The shaft is locked into place with a split ring clip.

The string eye furls slip over six protruding roll pins. She shaft cannot be removed unless the six roll pins are removed, which I wouldn't recommend.

If the shaft is drilled for the strings, the shaft should slide out once the once the split ring clip is removed.

I would soak the unit in varsol to clean out any debris, properly dry the unit (compressed air/hair-dryer, and oil with light machine oil.

Assuming your unit is a genuine Bigsby, ''licensed by'' and replica units may be different

Best,

BIB.

 

[Uncle Daddy]

I've removed the roll pins before. They need compressing from the sides to get them out- I used mole grips, if I remember right. Getting them back in was character building without the right tool, but they do have a taper on the front edge to help with insertion. The needles may all fall out when you pull the shaft out.

However, before you get carried away, make sure the short lever isn't too far inboard. I had one that was scaping on the outer edge of the bearing cage. If it's still scraping and sounds dry with the lever unattached, sounds like the shaft has to come out for some lithium grease on the needle rollers.

 

[Lucky Jim]

Many thanks for your replies @Back in Black and @Uncle Daddy. Very helpful.

BiB the Bigsby is on a Proline Jet less than five years old so a genuine Bigsby. Being a Cliff Gallup sig model it came factory-fitted with a fixed-handle Bigsby but I also have a DE handle for it.

The metal-to-metal sound can only be where the shaft passes through the end bearings, either rubbing on the bearing body (unlikely?) or on dried-out needle bearings.

The shaft does have the traditional roll pins rather than the more recent drilled type of shaft. I’ve never had any trouble stringing up with roll pins so prefer to keep it that way. I note you don’t recommend removing the pins.

Uncle Daddy I appreciate your words of caution. Certainly there are very slight wear marks on the short lever but they seem pretty well inevitable due to the float in the shaft. I’ve heard before that the bearings can sometimes protrude a fraction too much and some have reported having to gently press/tap them in. However, despite those slight wear marks the short lever did not appear to be binding in use. I’ll look at that more but the apparently dry bearings concern me more. I agree that they probably need some lithium grease. Thanks for the warning that the needles may fall out! Did you tap or press the pins back in?

I’m pretty OK normally with doing all sorts of mechanical and delicate jobs, However, I do like to have some spare parts handy in case anything does go wrong. Bigsby bearings seem to be available but not the pins. If anyone knows a supplier of them it would help.

I recall seeing an archive post from @hcsterg where he referred to removing, cleaning and polishing the shaft and regreasing the bearings but can’t now remember any mention of pin removal/replacement so perhaps it was a drilled shaft.

Again, thanks both of you.

 

[hcsterg]

I recall seeing an archive post from @hcsterg where he referred to removing, cleaning and polishing the shaft and regreasing the bearings but can’t now remember any mention of pin removal/replacement so perhaps it was a drilled shaft.

Right @Lucky Jim . I did this. On two Bigsbys.

I could remove the pins gently with a pair of pliers on one. It was a natural one (Alu / Chrome).

I never could on the other one, tried to drill the shaft and it turned to be a havoc, so I trashed the shaft and bough a new one unpinned. It was a gold one, with gold-plated shaft. The plating sealed the pins definetly so the removal of these was not possible.

So on an Alu/Chrome version, it should be OK, but on a Gold/plated - particularly id the shaft is plarted : it should be from beware to no way...

A+!

 

[KreepyTeach]

I pulled out the rails in a rush and butchered them, but I was also ready to use a drill press to convert my bar to a string through. If I couldn't get em back in.

Wound up just buying a Callahan, and have not dealt with those little posts since. easy restrings for me now I heard some higher end Models posts screw off??? So it can be a pin or string through? That's cool.

 

[Lucky Jim]

Thanks @hcsterg. Your comments are very helpful. How did you get the pins on the alu/chrome Bigsby back in? Was it very difficult?

@KreepyTeach yeah, that’s what I feared and I’m already resigned to a similar solution as a last resort, even though a Callaham type shaft would not be historically correct on this ‘56 repro guitar.

I can see why BiB wouldn’t recommend removing the pins.

 

[KreepyTeach]

Thanks @hcsterg. Your comments are very helpful. How did you get the pins on the alu/chrome Bigsby back in? Was it very difficult?

@KreepyTeach yeah, that’s what I feared and I’m already resigned to a similar solution as a last resort, even though a Callaham type shaft would not be historically correct on this ‘56 repro guitar.

I can see why BiB wouldn’t recommend removing the pins.

Best of luck! Should work out alright for LUCKY Jim!

 

[hcsterg]

Thanks @hcsterg. Your comments are very helpful. How did you get the pins on the alu/chrome Bigsby back in? Was it very difficult?

@KreepyTeach yeah, that’s what I feared and I’m already resigned to a similar solution as a last resort, even though a Callaham type shaft would not be historically correct on this ‘56 repro guitar.

I can see why BiB wouldn’t recommend removing the pins.

Well, it seems that @KreepyTeach fronted the same pin issue that I had on my Gold-plated version ... Was it an Alu/Chrome or also a Gold-plated ?

To reinstall the pins was not more difficult than to extract them - as long as they allow themselves to be done initially, OK ?

After reinstalling it in the Bigsby chassis, I placed the shaft again in a narrow vise, with the pin holes as vertical as possible.
Then I used a narrow needle-nose pliers to guide the pin and pushed it in with a light hammer.
And that's done...

I was prepared to do the same way with the Gold-plated. The goal was to dismantle that V-cut out Lefty B6G in order to de-plate it completely using @englishman recipe, but the unpinning turned to be an impossible mission.

That said : if it is just for cleaning the shapt and the bearings and the needle extraction proves to be impossible, even with all the required tooling and caution, then you can try this way - Hope I'm clear :

- unscrew and remove the nut from the shaft at one side.
- remove the circlips at the other side.
- then you should be able to travel left-right the shaft from ext. pin to ext. pin.
- this would allow easier penetration of degreasing / cleaning oil, by clearing the running surfaces.
- then remove with toilet paper what pours out from the needle bearings each side (dirt + old grease liquefied).
- repeat <-----> as needed, until its clean.
- then gentle grease the shaft with a light roller bearing grease (the green lithium variety is fine).
- then wiggle left-right and turn the shaft to spread it in the needle bearings.
- wipe the excess.
- your shaft must turn freely, without any without any point of resistance even the lightest.
- reassemble the whole.

Then do the pendulum test, as explained below :



If it is satisfactory, you're done !

A+!

 

[Uncle Daddy]

I think I got the pins back in with mole grips to start them off. It wasn't that arduous, if I recall right. I may have tapped them lightly to line them up with each other, and didn't need to use a press.

 

[hcsterg]

I think I got the pins back in with mole grips to start them off. It wasn't that arduous, if I recall right. I may have tapped them lightly to line them up with each other, and didn't need to use a press.

Yes. It's the way that should be... Normally...

A+!

 

[Lucky Jim]

@hcsterg thanks so much for the detailed advice. Thanks also for the alternative method, which I understood totally, including the pendulum test. I really appreciate the time you took to write it all down.

@Uncle Daddy thanks for confirming your method of reinstalling the pins. You both seem to have gone about it in a similar way.

You've all given me enough information and encouragement to give it a go although it's going to be a little tense removing the first pin . If it fails I always have the Callahan option like @KreepyTeach but let's hope it works out OK

 

[mister rain]

following, as i have a b6 vee and a callaham bar, and i really need to make them one thing and not two.

so reinstalling the pins isn’t my concern - it’s those… the rings you need special pliers for that hold the string bar in?

mechanically stupid over here - but quiz me on red beans…

 

[Lucky Jim]

following, as i have a b6 vee and a callaham bar, and i really need to make them one thing and not two.

so reinstalling the pins isn’t my concern - it’s those… the rings you need special pliers for that hold the string bar in?

The circlip? It's only on one end of the shaft, the end farthest from the handle and spring. I believe it's already attached to the Callaham shaft so no need to remove it. See here from 4.40

 

[mister rain]

The circlip? It's only on one end of the shaft, the end farthest from the handle and spring. I believe it's already attached to the Callaham shaft so no need to remove it. See here from 4.40

huh, okay. sounds like i need a set of mole grips - my wire cutters are snub nose, for clipping strings. doubt they’ll do the trick - but i’ll give it a shot.

thank ya.