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Discussion in 'Electromatic Gretsch Forum' started by Hickeroar, Nov 26, 2020.
That really looks great, especially on the black guitar.
Hey FiveAces, I am considering a roller bridge for my 5120. Can you elaborate on what sort of mod you had to do?
Does your 5120 have a floating bridge like my G5129?
I thought I'd try a roller bridge from GFS and so far really like it. Comes with the rosewood base, needs no mods, but you do have to sand the base bottom to fit the guitar.
I tape sandpaper tight to the body where the bridge will set, then circular movements across the sandpaper.
Description says it won't rattle and so far so good.
Archtop Roller Bridge Rosewood Base (guitarfetish.com)
Randy - yup, mine is floating. Had a look at the Guitar Fetish model. As cheap as it is, I think I will try it out - not too much to lose, eh?
5120 Bridge by SidneyJ posted Jan 24, 2021 at 2:09 PM
I did sand the Rosewood base (floating bridge) to better match the curve of the guitar surface. But if you zoom in on the 5120 pic I posted, you'll see that I actually milled off approximately 0.120" deep notch off the bottom of the Wilkinson roller bridge to clear the thumbwheels. The reason being the bridge was a little too high even though the thumbwheels were bottomed out! Even though it was playable I felt more comfortable having a little more adjustment room to lower it more. This may vary between guitars depending on the neck set angle, base thickness, etc,, but looking back, there is more than enough thickness on the wood base that I easily could have sanded it instead of milling the bridge. All in all, the bridge has performed great!
Here's a better pic of just the Wilkinson Roller bridge showing the milled area where it would sit on the thumbwheels. Although I did not have to do it on my G5435T Pro Jet, but I probably will when I do a string change.... I just prefer that little extra room for future adjustments.
Hey Five - Thanks for the quick reply, and the extra photo is helpful! How did you mill it; do you have metal working gear? It makes good sense...my stock bridge has to bottom out to sit right.
Thanks again. Sid
Actually, I used a brand new, clean, sharp metal file I had and did it by hand. The trick was to keep the filed surface level so it will sit flat on the thumbscrews when you install it back on the wood base. PATIENCE! Don't rush and use even forward cutting strokes... let the file do the work.
The depth isn't critical. You can file off anywhere between 0.100" to 0.150" off both sides. Try & do the same on both sides but again, a little difference isn't critical... but keeping them parallel is!
And remember, all this is being done on the underside. So unless you get extremely sloppy, none of it will show and it will look and work great! Good luck....
Ended up going with a cheap TOM roller bridge. Had to do the post filing as Gregor had suggested. Here are a couple of pics. No tuning issues anymore either.