How big of a job would it be to add a Bigsby to a V stoptail 5220 and what model Bigsby would be suitable. Thanks for any thoughts.
Adding a Bigsby to a 5220
- Thread starter Gregor
- Start date
Yeah having looked into this myself, it seems the B3 with a Towner Down Tension Bar is the most elegant solution.
For a few bucks more there is the B3C, the Gretsch branded Bigsby with the V-Cut that functions the same way but looks cooler (imo!).
For a few bucks more there is the B3C, the Gretsch branded Bigsby with the V-Cut that functions the same way but looks cooler (imo!).
This is the B3...
This is the B3C...
And if money is tight you could also consider the import licenced version, the B30, which looks much like the B3.
Here is the Towner Down Tension Bar, you'll probably need to get their metric studs...
Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
This is the B3C...
And if money is tight you could also consider the import licenced version, the B30, which looks much like the B3.
Here is the Towner Down Tension Bar, you'll probably need to get their metric studs...
Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
Tele295
Country Gent
stiv
Country Gent
That's the easiest (and cleanest) way.
Other ways are a B5 or a B7 (if it works for the PE Jets it should work for the Electromatic Jets as well), but removing the V stoptail and filling the holes to install them it would be too much of a hassle.
Other ways are a B5 or a B7 (if it works for the PE Jets it should work for the Electromatic Jets as well), but removing the V stoptail and filling the holes to install them it would be too much of a hassle.
Mr Twangy
Gretschie
Definitely recommend the B3C with the Towner down tension bar. Installation takes 5 minutes, 4 small screws in the heel of the guitar and it works great.
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HT,
For me, this is by far the best solution.
The ''Custom Jet'' cover bar looks great, and you've not only eliminated the troublesome, break angle/drag when using the Toner bar,, but you've added a roller bridge to ensure full tuning stability when activating the Bigsby.
Now you have a complete system, that has fully compatible individual components.
Best,
BIB.
That's true, the result is neat, @Back in Black, but it's not comparable in terms of preparation with the "5mn affair" like @Mr Twangy (justifiably) says about the Towner Bar solution...
I mean : you need to file and bend accordingly the Bigsby B3 chassis in order to reach the 7-8° break angle, and hence the tooling and some confidence to do this.
A+!
I mean : you need to file and bend accordingly the Bigsby B3 chassis in order to reach the 7-8° break angle, and hence the tooling and some confidence to do this.
A+!
stiv
Country Gent
Of course yeah, the B3 + Towner (or custom plate) it’s by far the more practical and neat job, also the better for a correct angle. To be honest though, I’ve had the Towner and I didn’t like it that much. For those that use the palm a lot or that like to pick above the bridge pickup for more attack (like many bottleneck players) it’s not in the best position and you’ll end up pushing on it all the time, with the consequence that the upper bar moves and would need to be tightened after every intensive use. Probably the custom plate is a better idea.
Still, look at the Pro lines. You buy a B7 (or B70) and the 5220 will look like a PE Jet without having a custom job done (the fact that the B7 works worse that the B3, that’s another story
). I know the B5 holes won’t fit the B7 but they’re very close, a good guitar man would make them perfect with ease.I’m not a fan of B7 but that’s what I would do if I’d buy a 5220 again (not likely).
Agree, but a couple of hours to do the prep work, pays off in superior performance...which is what's important.
Best,
BIB.
ToneM1
Gretschie
I love the bottom photo and I've done this a few times over the years. I had an early `90's Champagne Sparkle Jet that came with a"G" Cutout tailpiece and wanted to put a Bigsby on it. I did the same thing that's on the bottom photo.
I installed a B3G on my 5220 (plus a lot of other goodies)
I think the break angle is just fine, i use the bigsby for accent, not dive bombing!
TV Jones classic and classic plus, harness, knobs, tuners and a TruArc bridge.!
I think the break angle is just fine, i use the bigsby for accent, not dive bombing!
TV Jones classic and classic plus, harness, knobs, tuners and a TruArc bridge.!
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Thanks @ToneM1 !
Normally - and if I am correct, OK ? - with a Proline Jet with bridge mounted on a floating base, you should not need to do that, because the height of the strings vs. the top is large enough to accommodate a regular B3 without any modification on it... It's only for the Electromatic G522x and G523x that it is necessary, since the bridge sits lower than on Proline.
But it's me, OK ?
And you probably hit the strings gently, unlike me and my Big Stubby 3mm
! Otherwise, your string would pop off the bridge slots... Due to a mere 4-5° break angle - with unmodified B3 on a G5220 - you possibly may notice sometimes a lack of sustain or some sitar-like sound, but if not, well that's fine !
A+!
Yes, .73 mm pick and my fingerpicking is not going to pop the strings out! Oh, and some nut sauce goes a long way for stability.
The tone so far, especially with the new wiring and pickups, is superb. If I hear ringing, it’s my tinnitus…
But honestly if I do a Townshend, it’ll be on my telecaster
The tone so far, especially with the new wiring and pickups, is superb. If I hear ringing, it’s my tinnitus…
But honestly if I do a Townshend, it’ll be on my telecaster
I get wanting to add a true Bigsby, but I wonder if a Duesenberg Les Trem would work and be way less mods? https://store.duesenberg.de/en/tremolo-systems/34/duesenberg-les-trem-ii
Check the stud spacing, might not fit the Electromatic. Nice design but a Bigsby is a Bigsby!! Although I would not mind owning a Deusenberg or the Collings Jet copy…
