Swappin' out master volume pot

Discussion in 'Technical Side of Things' started by Rockhead, May 1, 2019.

  1. Rockhead

    Rockhead Electromatic

    27
    Mar 3, 2019
    Delaware county, PA
    I'm bloody confused with the Gretsch reverse wiring. I want to change my master volume pot but I'm not sure which lug is 1 or 3. I added numbers on the master volume in the schematic shown. Is this correct for adding the new pot? Will this undo the reverse wiring for the MV? Eventually I will swap all of the pots out and need to know how to rewire them
    them "unreversed'. RW.jpg
     
  2. Rockhead

    Rockhead Electromatic

    27
    Mar 3, 2019
    Delaware county, PA
  3. RomanS

    RomanS Gretschie

    255
    May 26, 2010
    Vienna, Austria
    You need to swap 1 and 3 on your drawing!

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Rockhead

    Rockhead Electromatic

    27
    Mar 3, 2019
    Delaware county, PA
  5. jfassett

    jfassett Gretschie

    390
    Dec 9, 2017
    Tucson
    The drawing is for a left handed guitar I believe
     
  6. DennisC

    DennisC Gretschie

    Age:
    36
    334
    May 11, 2017
    Germany
    That shouldn't matter ... should it? I mean, is turning stuff left to the maximum commonly essential on a LH? I can only see from RH-side, but I wouldn't really mind of I had to turn it the other direction, just gotta know ... it's everywhere else - there are no LH amps or other devices, so I guess most are used to turn to the right to increase whatever ... but, anyway, the one marked A or 1 always is ground. Reverse means the pickup-hot goes to wiper, output-hot is on 3 - you gotta reverse this to unreverse the pot ... pickup-hot on 3, output-hot on 2.

    The master volume isn't in reverse anyway (not in the wiring shown above, not in any Gretsch I know), only the individual volumes are (sometimes - in Streamliners for example, they're not) - and this only is relevant if you lower anything by them. If you want to change th pickup's balancing in middle position, this may mean you lose more treble and all that - easiest is just remove the ground connection on individual volumes, so the added load is taken away, but still the output is adjustable (something I'm planning to do since forever on both the 2622 and 5420 ... hardly at home at the moment, I'm like rented to work somewhere else - I won't waste time modifying right now, rather use it playing...).

    However, simply wiring it in another order won't make it lefthand regarding direction of increase, you'd also need reverse-log pots, unless you use these to reverse the direction you turn the knobs, you'll change the direction, that's right, but it'll be less usable as the change of resistance over angle is inverted, too ... unless it's inverted one more time.
     
  7. hcsterg

    hcsterg Country Gent

    Feb 13, 2012
    France
    Hi Rockhead,

    Maybe you've guessed it, but I'm the guy who draw that schematic - sorry if it droves you in the confusion... :confused:

    I'm Lefty player but all my guitar circuits are designed and wired Right-Handed, so directly usable as is, as represented, without any changes to do, so no worry, OK ? ;) I should have mentioned it... :oops:

    And as DennisC wrote, what I agree totally with :
    Why not Left-Handed taps (faucet) ? Left-Handed steering wheels ? Left-Handed watches ? :D:D:D

    That said, on ALL the Lefty guitars I had, ONLY ONE came correctly wired, that is to say in the conventional Right-Handed sense : my venerable Gibson ES335-TD from 1980, my 1st guitar :

    [​IMG]

    All the other guitar were wired backwards (and I am a Lefty Player to write that, OK ?) so I had to rewire them, no matter the brand, Gretsch included. As I understand it, it is intended for Lefties to ease the "violining effect" you can achieve with the volume control... :confused::rolleyes:

    OK, end of the digression :rolleyes:... Back to that schematic :cool: :

    - You can see there is an arrow along each pot : it indicates the conventional, Right-Handed, clockwise (CW) rotation for increasement, like on any amplifier volume or tone control.

    - M means Maximum Volume level and m means minimum Volume level (or zero) for Volume pots.

    - M means Maximum Treble level and m means minimum Treble level (or maximum treble attenuation, if you prefer) for the Tone pot.

    I never use the A,B,C or 1,2,3 convention : I found it confusing and source of errors. I much prefer the CW or CCW indication, as found on most of the Fender amp schematics since the late 80's, because it denotes clearly the real operation of the controls.

    But it's me, OK ? :D

    A+!
     
    MotorCentaur, new6659 and Hammerhead like this.
  8. Rockhead

    Rockhead Electromatic

    27
    Mar 3, 2019
    Delaware county, PA
    Thank you all! Sorry, I'm so used to wiring Tele's. I've get confused when I see comments like "I rewired my Gretsch because they're wired backwards". Just needed some clarification on which lugs were which. I should have known. By the way, regular audio taper pots are what the 5220 comes with for the neck and bridge volumes and the schematic changes them to reverse audio, correct?

    I believe you did. I can be a little dense at times. :rolleyes:
     
  9. hcsterg

    hcsterg Country Gent

    Feb 13, 2012
    France
    Well, Rockhead,

    It's easy to check it : remove the MV and MT pot (wires are long enough, no worry) and read the value inked on the top of the terminal plates. You should find the mentions B500K (LIN) or A500K (LOG), and most likely A500K if your guitar a RH model.

    For optimal progressivity, you should use, as denoted on my schematic :
    - A500K for MV
    - A500K for MT
    - C500K for NPuV
    - C500K for BPuV


    C denoting Reverse Audio (RA), Reverse LOG. It is the taper needed for progressivity in Pickup Volume pots wired à la Gretsch, even if Gretsch doesn't do this and use A taper instead (and they are wrong, sorry to say this... :().

    Guess what ? Those famous, super-rare and costy reputedly Lefty Special Design pots :eek::rolleyes: are nothing other than regular C taper pots, available easily ! ;)

    So when you write :
    You are correct.

    A+!
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2019
    new6659 likes this.
  10. Rockhead

    Rockhead Electromatic

    27
    Mar 3, 2019
    Delaware county, PA
    They probably costs 25 cents more a piece. :rolleyes:

    Thanks again!!!
     
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