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Discussion in 'Electromatic Gretsch Forum' started by rockabilly-rebel, Mar 25, 2010.
Thanks GM - I used humbrol paint - and then a couple of clear enamel to seal
Talking about the points on the "F", I was looking at my 5120 and my 5125 and noticed that 5120 doesn't have the points but the 5125 does! Strange! The holes on the 5125 are larger too!
Yep - I've got a 5125 as well - and they are larger and pointed, but I have a 5124 and they are like the 5120. The holes on the 5125 would take real binding with very little modification
Well done. I never noticed that the 6120 and 6118 had different f-hole shapes. Funny. I guess the binding threw me off.
Thanks, RR, I see it now. One other thing that just came to mind about modifying the F-holes: Whether you sand/file/saw/whatever the holes larger, wouldn't the dust and junk fall inside the hole? Wouldn't that be bad for the electronics inside? Do you hold the guitar upside down and shake out all of the junk when you're done. I'm not trying to argue that this is a bad idea, and I'm not necessarily directing the question at you personally (It's for anyone who has done the modification), I'm just curious as to what precaution(s), if any, you take to prevent that.
Now....about that head-stock
Hi Ken -
the guitar was thoroughly cleaned out afterwards - there actually wasn't that much debris from this mod - and I was pulling the entire harness out anyway to change the pups etc - There was no dust or anything on any of the electrics - but everything got cleaned anyway - I don't think it would have effected it much anyway, I dread to think how much dust is in my 60yr old Hofner - but still sounds sweet
Don't worry - i'll get to the headstock soon - promise
Ok on to the pick up install
I decided on Gretsch High Sensitive Filtertrons, a treble bleed to the master volume, changed the tone cap for a orange .02, and also added a square jack plate.
I decided against the English mounts (nothing wrong with them) I just didn't want to see the screw heads in the middle of the bezels - as I said earlier I'm funny like that.
So I fitted some wooden strips so that they could be fitted in the usual manner - here's the wooden strips
The wooden strips were glued and screwed with 6BA cheese head bolts, and nutted fro the inside.
Note the counter bore to sink the screw heads into body - these will then be hidden by the bezel
A pair of wooden shims were needed to raise the neck pup - as the parallel bars are on a taper and so they are deeper at the bridge than the neck.
These were glued and pinned into place - and set aside to dry
Then the Filtertrons could be positioned and screwed - with springs underneath - so the whole pup can be raised and lowered
Next was the bezels
Job Done !
I KNEW I saw something I couldn't put my finger on - or should I say didn't see?!? I had really wanted to know about this bit, since I know next to nothing about "normal" Filter mounting...
Very nice, and loving the tutorial/photo-documentary.
Thanks Mr Coffee - Thats basically the whole purpose of the thread - to help people
Gah....I know I'm being silly with two posts in a row now, but I just looked again and while it's a relatively small detail, I ~really~ like your results. I was borderline okay with the idea of the "English mount" or "hillbilly mount" that most folks do, but getting rid of that extra screw just cleans up the look so much! +1 on that detail alone!
I have been looking at the pictures and reading the text, trying to come up with the words to describe your work....FANTASTIC/COOOOOOOOOOOOOL dont seem to cut it, but it is the best I can do on a computor keyboard.
Thanks Renegade - Thats a fantastic compliment! - much appreciated
this thread has me re-thinking my hillbilly mounts. nice work!
OK lemme guess on the headstock: You took a picture of an end table, printed it, and applied it to the headstock.
Well, you said it was quick and easy...