Bigsby Bridge and base

Discussion in 'The Great Bigsby forum' started by Limuz, Jul 14, 2019.

  1. Limuz

    Limuz Gretschie

    303
    Sep 8, 2012
    Netherlands
    I've been looking at bridges to replace my current Compton bridge. I love how it sounds, but I'm not a massive fan of how it looks.

    Online, I came by this bridge with a slightly arched metal base. Please tell me more about this thing, I bet you people know more. Haven't seen one like it before. EDIT: it also appears it has no string slots. Is it something you do yourself or are these just 'slotless'?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
    r0de0 likes this.
  2. section2

    section2 Country Gent

    Dec 21, 2016
    Toronto
    I have Bigsby bridges on two guitars. I'm a fan. (Caveat: I've never used a Compton or a TruArc, so I can't say how they compare.)

    The bottom of the bridge is angled where it meets the thumbwheels. In theory, this helps the bridge rock back and forth when you use the Bigsby, but in reality, it tends to just rock forward and stay there. Many people (myself included) just file the bottom flat.

    The one in the photo is unslotted; you'd need to file the slots yourself or have a luthier do it for you. Slots are definitely needed: your strings will slide all over the place without them.

    Some Bigsby bridges do come pre-slotted. I have one that's compensated for a plain G string, and it was slotted at the factory.

    One thing to note: these bridges have an unusual post spacing, so a Bigsby bridge won't fit a typical base, and a Bigsby base won't fit most bridges. But that won't be a problem if you're buying a Bigsby bridge with the base.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
    Limuz likes this.
  3. Limuz

    Limuz Gretschie

    303
    Sep 8, 2012
    Netherlands
    Much appreciated input! I've read more about it rocking forward... and staying there. I wonder how it'll act on mine. As for the slots, I'll probably use a set of small metal saws and metal files to make the slots. I don't have any slotting files and they're extremely expensive - especally if you never use them again.

    I also heard about the unusal post spacing, but I bought this one with the base so that won't be an issue. I bet the metal base will look killer.
     
    section2 likes this.
  4. Lee Erickson

    Lee Erickson Country Gent

    Apr 20, 2009
    Eagan, MN
    Limuz likes this.
  5. Limuz

    Limuz Gretschie

    303
    Sep 8, 2012
    Netherlands
  6. r0de0

    r0de0 Gretschie

    Age:
    62
    246
    Jul 7, 2011
    Ontario, Canada
    Looks like an aluminum Bigsby compensated bridge with no slots and a metal base.

    I use the original aluminum Bigsby compensated bridge with the wooden base on my Eddie Cochran SE and 6121 Roundup. They have a slight V shaped base to rock on. I find that the trick to making these work and keeping them working is to pre-tilt it back towards the Bigsby, so it rocks forward then returns to "home' position.

    You can see how it is pre-cocked in this image. Works great!

    AL Bigs Tilted Back 2.jpg
     
    Limuz likes this.
  7. Limuz

    Limuz Gretschie

    303
    Sep 8, 2012
    Netherlands
    That's brilliant. I'll try that.
     
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  8. Limuz

    Limuz Gretschie

    303
    Sep 8, 2012
    Netherlands
    It's here and all done. I 'pre-cocked' it, like your advice
    It's pretty high on its stilts, but nothing I can do about that I think. Sounds awesome, but I broke the G string so now I have to wait until monday to get some new strings.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    r0de0 likes this.
  9. TV the Wired Turtle

    TV the Wired Turtle Gretschified

    Jul 25, 2009
    so cal
    I sand my bigsby bridge flat on the bottom, there's enough sway'n from the height of the posts. works a charm w my smith tele.
     
  10. Limuz

    Limuz Gretschie

    303
    Sep 8, 2012
    Netherlands
    Your posts move? Not the tiniest bit of play on this one.
     
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