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March 1st, 2012, 12:39 PM
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#41 (permalink)
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Synchromatic
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wales
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Whiz
Here's a question: should I try the copper? Should I choose aluminum? Should I get the name "Triple Jet" engraved in the truss rod cover or make up a cool new name?
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i vote u paint breasts all over it......The Nipple Jet
taxi for beatnik!
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Join Date: March, 2003
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March 1st, 2012, 01:08 PM
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#42 (permalink)
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Friend of Fred
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Norway
Age: 52
Posts: 5,003
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Call it XXX.
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Manual gearbox, 3 x Double Espresso
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March 1st, 2012, 02:57 PM
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#43 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Age: 40
Posts: 4,832
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Wow Beatnik, where did that come from?! 
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March 1st, 2012, 03:14 PM
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#44 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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I'll get right on that, Beat.
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March 2nd, 2012, 02:07 PM
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#45 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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If i decide to rattle can this thing, what would be the best approach regarding binding? I can mask off the sides and neck and everything but the front binding would be a pain in the butt to mask off. Do you think I would have to sand the top or could I just maybe scuff up the clear and go for I from there?
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March 2nd, 2012, 02:24 PM
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#46 (permalink)
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Friend of Fred
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Norway
Age: 52
Posts: 5,003
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Tape the binding on the side, paint the top, scratch the paint from the binding on the top, paint the top with the clear coat.
Your jet is coated with thin gold and very thick clear poly, I think it would be best to strip the whole top.
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Manual gearbox, 3 x Double Espresso
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March 2nd, 2012, 02:30 PM
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#47 (permalink)
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Synchromatic
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wales
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6stings
Tape the binding on the side, paint the top, scratch the paint from the binding on the top, paint the top with the clear coat.
Your jet is coated with thin gold and very thick clear poly, I think it would be best to strip the whole top.
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im with darko if ur gonna do it do it properly strip it off and repaint
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March 2nd, 2012, 03:22 PM
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#48 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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The gold almost looks like a sticker that's been cleared over.
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March 2nd, 2012, 03:52 PM
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#49 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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Also could I use the heat gun/scraper method to remove current finish since I have a set neck?
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March 2nd, 2012, 05:04 PM
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#50 (permalink)
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Electromatic
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Whiz
Also could I use the heat gun/scraper method to remove current finish since I have a set neck?
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That's the quickest way to do it but you will melt the binding with a heat gun. I've used a heat gun to soften binding to bend it and you have to be really careful or it will get way too soft.
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March 2nd, 2012, 06:34 PM
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#51 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by dababy
That's the quickest way to do it but you will melt the binding with a heat gun. I've used a heat gun to soften binding to bend it and you have to be really careful or it will get way too soft.
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I guess I'll be digging the sander out then.
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March 3rd, 2012, 07:43 PM
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#52 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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Picked up a Forstner bit today to practice my routing on a piece of creosote lumber. It's a half inch bit. Worked well, but I don't know which Dremel bit would be best for cleaning it up. I can't afford to buy a real router for only one project.
I also picked up some copper spray paint to try. The only thing Lowes had was a thousand different brands of "aged" copper. It didn't look 100% on my scrap, though. This one looked like the first draft of the Triple Jet that was painted instead covered with sheet copper. Cool in its own was though. Depending on how my scrap looks when I put 100000000000 coats of clear on it.
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March 3rd, 2012, 11:39 PM
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#53 (permalink)
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Synchromatic
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Toronto
Age: 25
Posts: 865
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For the dremel get the biggest router bit you can find. Id suggest buying a plunge base for the dremel too going by hand can be dangerous,( i know from experience). Also the forstner bit by hand is the same thing, do you have access to a drill press? I think your best bet is finding someone you know with a router and borrow it.
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March 4th, 2012, 12:13 AM
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#54 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Australia
Age: 53
Posts: 1,092
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Nice work. Subscribed
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March 5th, 2012, 08:05 AM
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#55 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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This comes in copper. What do you think?
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March 5th, 2012, 08:33 AM
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#56 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: May 2011
Location: belgium
Age: 23
Posts: 1,874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Whiz
Mxr Micro Amp and TV Jones Classic Plus bridge and Classic neck kits (wood blocks, bezels, screws, foam) ordered last night. I'm goin to drop these two new pups in till I can afford the third, switches, knobs, and control plates.
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is classic plus and classic what jack white has in his?
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March 5th, 2012, 08:53 AM
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#57 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ampe
is classic plus and classic what jack white has in his?
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From what I've read, yes.
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March 5th, 2012, 10:14 AM
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#59 (permalink)
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Synchromatic
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wales
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Whiz
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are u planning to spray it straight onto the wood or make a metal top piece and spray that?
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March 5th, 2012, 10:47 AM
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#60 (permalink)
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Country Gent
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Virginia
Age: 28
Posts: 1,248
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by beatnik
are u planning to spray it straight onto the wood or make a metal top piece and spray that?
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I'm sort of afraid to put sheet metal on her, unless I take about 1/8 inch off the top. Simply because with the floating bridge and neck angle, I won't have much wiggle room as far as action is concerned. I'm already routing the body out for controls and stuff, so i dont know of ill be able to handle taking any wood off the top. I am already having to cut the bridge base down a tad to get the action low enough. I will probably just paint the top with a metallic paint, if I can find one or find an auto body shop that will spray it.
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