[G-Whiz]

I'm going to have to cut a switch cavity for my 3 switches on the treble side horn. I'm also going to have to cut the control cavity a little bigger for the MXR and new knob for gain. I used the cavity covers I already had as templates to make these, so theyll fit the cavities already there. I used the teardrop shapes from the Red Vampire guitar, and the triangle backplate from the Custome Shop/Proline Jets. Here is a picture with the posterboard templates in place for dramatic effect, as Beatnik says. The other is the Red Vampire, the inspiration for the teardrop covers.

[G-Whiz]

I found a "drawer organizer" at Mal-Wart that I'm going to cut up and try to make covers out of. I've been talking to Setzer and if I can't get these right, I'll have him make them. He's also making me an engraved truss rod cover. Looking at the templates, though, I think I might like white for the covers.

[telespank]

Looking good! You're really making it your own.

[G-Whiz]

I must say, this one turned out better than expected.

[G-Whiz]

Now I've taped off where I need to route. I've measured a thousand times. I will route the entire pattern at 1/8" depth, and "inlay" the covers, then cut out the cavities with a forstner bit, then go back in and clean it up with the router. I will then drill the holes needed for the switches.

[G-Whiz]

I do this every time haha.

[Jupitard]

this is an amazing build. i wanted to do something like this to my old 5126 but never got the chance.

[G-Whiz]

I got my cavities done today. If you ever think you can freehand route with just an outline drawn on, don't believe yourself. I 'inlayed' the covers, then used a Forstner bit to cut, then cleaned up with a router. It doesn't look terrible with the cavity covers on, and it'll be hidden when I refinish the back, but I don't know that I would ever do this again. In the last pic with the three holes, I'm embarrassed to show pictures of the cavity I made, but it holds the switches and that's all that matters to me.

[G-Whiz]

I just got done sanding the back of the guitar and the front of the headstock. The grain on the wood is very pretty. I thought it was a few pieces glued together with obvious lines, but it's all one piece and very nice looking. Because of the little boo boo with the cavity covers, I decided to fix it the best I can with wood putty and then restain the back and sides. I was just going to sand the top and paint it, but why not do the back, too? After all, there are a few little dings and marks from working on this thing. I picked up a can of Minwax dark chestnut gel stain. I think it will look really nice.

I found a guy that will paint the guitar for free if I just buy the paint and clear. He's an auto body guy that wants more experience with other things. I'm going to get it sanded, get the back and sides stained, wait for middle pup and inlay to arrive, put the inlay in the headstock (with a template this time), route for the middle pup (same deal, template), take it to paint, put it all together.

I still haven't decided on a color. It's between copper (still), Annie smoke green, Cadillac green, maybe baby blue.

After I sand the top, is there anything I need to do to it to prep it for painting? A sealer? What kind of clear should I use? How should I go about the back of the neck? I like the feel of an 'unfinished' neck, but do you think it would it match the rest of the shiny back?

Also, there is the issue with sanding the serial number off. I was thinking just do it and getting my own serial number decal made. Like (my initials) ED001 or (triple jet) TJ001. This is not going to be sold, ever, so I don't think the serial number would be a big deal.

[G-Whiz]

Pics of sanding will be in tomorrow.

[nadles]

Looking good, I'm enjoying this thread

Did you cut out the cavity covers with a dremel?

[G-Whiz]

Originally Posted by nadles

Looking good, I'm enjoying this thread

Did you cut out the cavity covers with a dremel?

I rough cut them with a Dremel with like a half inch bleed, then used a heavy duty belt sander to shape them, cleaned the edges with an X-acto knife, then sanded with finer paper.

[johsonrod]

Looks amazing dude you're doing a great job, the cavities look fine. Keep it up!

[G-Whiz]

Originally Posted by johsonrod

Looks amazing dude you're doing a great job, the cavities look fine. Keep it up!

Thanks, johnsonrod. Say, I've got the back sanded down to the wood. I know it's mahogany, so I probably need to use a grain filler on it before staining it, right?

[johsonrod]

Ive only ever finished a mahogany body in tung oil(mixing aniline dye into the oil to stain) , didnt need to grain fill at all as every other coat of oil I would sand into the wood,. Im not sure how I would go about staining if your going to spray nitro. Someone with more knowledge will tell you more.
Lets see the pics of the sanded back!

[RoyJBowman]

I like the red idea but out of your opinions I say copper.

[G-Whiz]

Okay, here is the back that's been sanded. I'm also including a pic of what I like to call the 'switch cave' lol. There is also a pic of the top's progress

[HypotenusLuvTriangle]

Wow! Its so naked.... Did you use a power sander? or by hand?

[G-Whiz]

Originally Posted by HypotenusLuvTriangle

Wow! Its so naked.... Did you use a power sander? or by hand?

I used a power sander till I got to the sanding sealer, then hand sanded so I wouldn't take off any wood.

[Lizardkinged]

HA Switch cave! I love it. lol.