[DaveT]

Hi Folks, one thing bugging me on the new 6120. The adjustment wheels are jacked up.pretty high on the bridge.

Initially, the action was pretty low with a bit of buzz at the 10th fret on Low E, so I had the store's tech make some adjustments.

Action feels fine, No Buzz, but the bridge looks really jacked up, especially on the low E side (much more than I see on Carbohydrates new 6120 and more than my 5120).

Is that OK?

Should I be concerned?

When I asked at the store I was assured it was fine,

Thoughts ?

Thanks

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[Synchro]

Originally Posted by DaveT

Hi Folks, one thing bugging me on the new 6120. The adjustment wheels are jacked up.pretty high on the bridge.

Initially, the action was pretty low with a bit of buzz at the 10th fret on Low E, so I had the store's tech make some adjustments.

Action feels fine, No Buzz, but the bridge looks really jacked up, especially on the low E side (much more than I see on Carbohydrates new 6120 and more than my 5120).

Is that OK?

Should I be concerned?

When I asked at the store I was assured it was fine,

Thoughts ?

Thanks

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I wouyldn't worry about it. I've seen the same thing on new guitars.

[mugsy]

It's probably fine. You might double check the intonation to make sure the bridge is in the correct location.

[DaveT]

Thanks Guys

Yep, will double check intonation.

I guess I could always lower it a bit and re check the action/ Buzz. I'd mark the bridge position before hand as I believ lowering the adj wheel will somewhat slacken the strings.

Just looks funky, I worried about future adjustment if it got near the top of the adjustment range.




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[Gretsch-O-Manic]

You should also check the neck for backbow, and if necessary give the truss rod a tweak to loosen it a bit. A quarter-turn should do for starters; let the neck settle for a week or so and see if things improve.

[DaveT]

How do I check for Back Bow ?

Thanks
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[-PMK-]

You can "aim" down the side of neck from the headstock, worrks pretty well.

[DaveT]

OK, got it, will check, thanks again

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[Bear]

Another way to check for backbow that is even more accurate than sighting down the fretboard is to lay straight edge right in the middle of the fretboard, If the straight edge rocks at all, you have backbow even if it can't be seen by the naked eye.

[Gretsch Guy]

Hello DaveT, Don't trust your eyesight! Like Bear says, use a straight-edge, I use a 24" carpenters level. Lay one end on the 1st fret and the other on the 22nd fret next to the low E-string and check the clearance at the 8th fret. Be sure the level lays on the frets, not the nut or the bridge! It should be .008 to .0010. Use a spark-plug "feeler gauge" to check. If it is less than .008 you have a "bow", if it is more than .0010 you have a "warp" If you have a bow, loosen [turn counter-clockwise] the truss-rod in 1/8 increments until it is within spec. If you have a "warp" tighten [turn clock-wise] 1/8 increments until it's within spec. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN you could do serious damage to your git's neck! If you don't feel comfortable trying this adjustment, DON'T! Leave it to an expert! Hope this Helps, G.G.

[Likeabrave]

Originally Posted by Gretsch Guy

Hello DaveT, Don't trust your eyesight! Like Bear says, use a straight-edge, I use a 24" carpenters level. Lay one end on the 1st fret and the other on the 22nd fret next to the low E-string and check the clearance at the 8th fret. Be sure the level lays on the frets, not the nut or the bridge! It should be .008 to .0010. Use a spark-plug "feeler gauge" to check. If it is less than .008 you have a "bow", if it is more than .0010 you have a "warp" If you have a bow, loosen [turn counter-clockwise] the truss-rod in 1/8 increments until it is within spec. If you have a "warp" tighten [turn clock-wise] 1/8 increments until it's within spec. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN you could do serious damage to your git's neck! If you don't feel comfortable trying this adjustment, DON'T! Leave it to an expert! Hope this Helps, G.G.

Copied,
Pasted,
Saved in a How-To-Maintain-My-Gretsch directory,

Thanks, GG!

[DaveT]

Great direction and advice.

Ill leave any truss rod adj to my tech.

In the mean time I did a basic check with a steel straight edge, No rocking. No visible bow.

I lowered the bridge quite a bit- seems ok.

Ill play her as is for a while and check it with the 24" level and plug gauge this weekend for a more accurate assessment.

Thanks again

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[dafreeze]

The store's tech said it was fine?

All I've read here (Sounds as though Bear and the others concerned with neck relief are right on the money) makes me wonder what's going on and whether the techs worth his salt.

Can you take a measure with a good steel ruler, some reading glasses and a small flashlight and get an accurate measure of height at the 12th fret, from the top of the fret to the bottom of the E and e strings?

Assuming neck relief is proper as stated above I generally start with 9/64" (some write this as 4.5/32") on the E and 3/32" on e.

[Gretsch Guy]

Clarification: The clearance/gap is the distance between the TOP of the 8th fret itself and the straightedge. Not the fingerboard between the 7th and 8th fret! I hope this clears up any confusion. Also, on the Gretsch Tec-Tip video, he puts a capo on the first fret then frets the low-E at the 22nd fret, in essence using the low-E as a straightedge. G.G

Likeabrave, You're Welcome!

[DaveT]

Originally Posted by dafreeze

The store's tech said it was fine?

All I've read here (Sounds as though Bear and the others concerned with neck relief are right on the money) makes me wonder what's going on and whether the techs worth his salt.

Can you take a measure with a good steel ruler, some reading glasses and a small flashlight and get an accureate measure of height at the 12th fret, from the top of the fret to the bottom of the E and e strings?

Assuming neck relief is proper as stated above I generally start with 9/64" (some write this as 4.5/32") on the E and 3/32" on e.

Store Tech said it was fine, I had them go over it. But its possible that he just jacked up the bridge (vs adjusting the Truss Rod and Neck releif) to solve the buzz quickly

Ill check the clearances this weekend with a feeler gauge and a level, if its off, my Git Teacher is a good tech, ill take it to him instead.

I appreciate the tips guys, thanks

[guitarfarm]

Originally Posted by Bear

Another way to check for backbow that is even more accurate than sighting down the fretboard is to lay straight edge right in the middle of the fretboard, If the straight edge rocks at all, you have backbow even if it can't be seen by the naked eye.

Bear's advice is sound. I use a framing square for this and it works well.

[Mark W]

DaveT

Did uou check real closely for neck humps?

[gigatron]

Dan Erlewine's book on guitar maintenance is very good:

http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Player-.../dp/0879302917

Even if you don't want to do the work yourself, it is reassuring to know what's going on with the guitar so you don't have to worry about whether or not to believe the tech.

[DaveT]

Originally Posted by Mark W

DaveT

Did uou check real closely for neck humps?

By this you mean the scenario when one or two frets may be higher than the others, but the overall the relief on the Neck is ok? if so, not yet, but that did cross my mind. ill be able to find such things once i use the framing square/level on the weekend when I get it home.

There is also the possiblity that im just a paranoid perfectionist, worrying for no good reason whatso ever.

[mugsy]

Initially, the action was pretty low with a bit of buzz at the 10th fret on Low E, so I had the store's tech make some adjustments.

Action feels fine, No Buzz, but the bridge looks really jacked up, especially on the low E side...

Based on that, back bow or a neck hump seems unlikely. To check it, capo or fret the first fret and hold the G string down at the 16th fret. Look at the space between the top of the 7th/8th fret and the bottom of the G string. It should be about the same size as your high E string. I usually set mine up for less, so don't worry if it's not that much.