[exist16]

Hey guys.. more problems for me. My gretsch is always going out of tune when I bend or when performing any kind of lead. I already know it's not the bigsby (as i did an experiment). It's a little frustrating and before I forget it's usually the gbe going out tune.

[Bengal65]

Have you checked the nut slots for binding? Have you "locked" the strings on the tuner posts?

[johnnyguitar]

What gauge strings?
The nut is cut pretty deep on mine and anything over 10 to 46 is a tuning nightmare.

If you want heavier strings take it to someone reputable and have the nut cut for it

[mr coffee]

I'll echo that thought: nut issues most likely. Carefully dressed slots and a little graphite will go a long way toward proper return to pitch. Same deal at the saddles. Eliminate those, what remains is the Bigsby and the tuners. If you're confident that your Bigsby is returning correctly, tuners it is. There is a handy method of wrapping the string that I never learned, that allows you to minimize wraps around the post. Less wraps = less string movement = better tuning stability. If you'd rather, many folks have installed locking tuners from Sperzel, Planet Waves and Gotoh and been pretty happy with the results. It will involve reaming and drilling. Orange crayon and a drop of superglue makes exposed holes invisible. Anyway, start with the nut.

-m

[S Macp]

Hi, exist16 - what you describe can be caused by a couple of things, which are discussed in depth here.

Also, if your strings are old, they won't stay in tune so well.

[dan P]

The dead give away, with the nut is usually the pinging when using the tremolo....hear anything?

[HonkyTonkMichael]

Originally Posted by dan P

The dead give away, with the nut is usually the pinging when using the tremolo....hear anything?

I agree... Before I changed from a plastic to bone nut my 6120 made the "plink plink" sound when using my Bigsby or on big bends. Even bone will do that too if the slots aren't cut correctly. A cheap fix (If this is your problem) is to put some sort of graphite lubricant in the slots, and/or hog them out a little. Of coarse if you file them at all be careful not to mess up your action or make them so big that the strings are in the wrong place or aren't secure.

[exist16]

Originally Posted by HonkyTonkMichael

I agree... Before I changed from a plastic to bone nut my 6120 made the "plink plink" sound when using my Bigsby or on big bends. Even bone will do that too if the slots aren't cut correctly. A cheap fix (If this is your problem) is to put some sort of graphite lubricant in the slots, and/or hog them out a little. Of coarse if you file them at all be careful not to mess up your action or make them so big that the strings are in the wrong place or aren't secure.

I played the guitar to check for any "plink plink" noises and it sure does make that sound, however, it seems to be coming from the bridge. And to answer a few questions...

The strings are new, bengal (forgive me if i sound like a newbie) but I'm not sure what you mean by locking the strings on the tuner post, at the moment i'm using extra lights (9's) due to a hand injury, its easier... but could that be a problem?

[Jukebox]

BTW the nuts on Gretsch's are not plastic, they are graphite.

[DW_Dillinger]

Originally Posted by Jukebox

BTW the nuts on Gretsch's are not plastic, they are graphite.

Not to be a contrarian but I'm assuming the guitar in question is an Electromatic (since this is the Electromatic forum) and 90% of the nuts i have seen on Electromatics are plastic. I have seen a few models with bone but never graphite. come to think of it I cant think of any Gretsch that comes with a graphite nut. except...

I'm replacing the plastic nut on my 5120 and I think im gonna go for a white graphite one (I like the look of a white nut), which Gretsch is putting on the Tim Armstrong model...which is an electromatic!

[Bengal65]

Originally Posted by exist16

I played the guitar to check for any "plink plink" noises and it sure does make that sound, however, it seems to be coming from the bridge. And to answer a few questions...

The strings are new, bengal (forgive me if i sound like a newbie) but I'm not sure what you mean by locking the strings on the tuner post, at the moment i'm using extra lights (9's) due to a hand injury, its easier... but could that be a problem?

Synchro had a good tutorial on this. I couldn't readily find it.

This site has the instructions and a video showing the string locking method. If you have factory installed strings still on the guitar, then that can be a problem. Gretsch does not lock the strings. They just put a bunch of windings on the posts and that's not ideal.

9's, on a Gretsch? Wow that's light. Way too light IMHO.

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/stringing.htm

[exist16]

Originally Posted by Bengal65

Synchro had a good tutorial on this. I couldn't readily find it.

This site has the instructions and a video showing the string locking method. If you have factory installed strings still on the guitar, then that can be a problem. Gretsch does not lock the strings. They just put a bunch of windings on the posts and that's not ideal.

9's, on a Gretsch? Wow that's light. Way too light IMHO.

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/stringing.htm

Oh okay I think know what you mean... I haven't given that a try yet but I will. The strings aren't factory, i recently changed them (as I said before, accident) to 9's for easier playing, should I change to 10's? Would that also get rid of buzzing? Cheers, thanks for all the help guys.

[Bengal65]

Gretsch's are just buzzy for some unknown reason from my experience. Going to a heavier string gage always helps. I would go to at least 10's. Check your neck relief with the strings tuned to pitch. http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/trussrods.htm I include the link because it's a good site for general information. Gretsch's in general require a little more relief than most guitars, unless you go up to heavier gages. In the case with heavier strings, say 11-50 on up, you can almost have the neck very straight.

Cheers!

[mr coffee]

If you're binding at the bridge the solution is pretty much the same as for binding at the nut - proper dressing of the slots in the saddles. I upgraded to a Compton, and ordering includes specifying string gauge. Pops does a great job and I've had no issues with string binding at the bridge.

I personally have always played 10s, because I consistently break anything lighter, but many players use lighter gauges. If you're satisfied with 9s tonally, play 9s.

-m

[LATS]

Originally Posted by exist16

I played the guitar to check for any "plink plink" noises and it sure does make that sound, however, it seems to be coming from the bridge. And to answer a few questions...

The strings are new, bengal (forgive me if i sound like a newbie) but I'm not sure what you mean by locking the strings on the tuner post, at the moment i'm using extra lights (9's) due to a hand injury, its easier... but could that be a problem?

Try pinching the strings toward the headstock (as if you were playing above the nut) to see if they 'plink' there.

Was your guitar professionally set up for the string guage you're using now?

[gigatron]

I replaced the tuners on my Corvette with Gotoh locking tuners from StewMac (since one of them got bent in shipping it from Canada), and there was no reaming or drilling required.

I use .11s on all my electric guitars. It takes a little getting used to the heavier gauge, but I think they sound better.

[FrankieSixxxgun]

Lubrication! Get some graphite powder/oil or hell, even some pencil lead, and lubricate any place that the string make contact, i.e. the nut, saddles, bigsby parts, and tuner posts. All of my Gretsch's came with tuning issues and all of them were solved with lubrication not replacement parts. Well, save for my old Tenny, but that was a whole 'nother story. The other 4 are totally fine with some lube.

[HonkyTonkMichael]

Originally Posted by Jukebox

BTW the nuts on Gretsch's are not plastic, they are graphite.

The nut on my big orange (And expensive) Brian Setzer Sig 6120 was plastic... It still perplexes me why Gretsch would do that, and put a big ol' rattle trap piece of garbage TOM bridge that has the wrong radius. Now I'm not saying that they are all that way, but mine was.


Not only are bone nuts better for keeping in tune, but the tone is so much better it's hard to describe with words. Between that and my aluminum Compton bridge my guitar has amazing tone, sustain, and is even much louder acoustically.

PS - I totally agree with FrankieSixxxgun on the lubrication as well. Makes all the difference in the world. Even WD-40 on the Bigsby with pencil lead in the nut slots and on the saddles if you have a TOM. I just got some of this stuff from Stewart Mac that I'm going to try:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_sa...lubricant.html

Good luck!

[FThomas]

Originally Posted by HonkyTonkMichael

The nut on my big orange (And expensive) Brian Setzer Sig 6120 was plastic... It still perplexes me why Gretsch would do that, and put a big ol' rattle trap piece of garbage TOM bridge that has the wrong radius. Now I'm not saying that they are all that way, but mine was.


Not only are bone nuts better for keeping in tune, but the tone is so much better it's hard to describe with words. Between that and my aluminum Compton bridge my guitar has amazing tone, sustain, and is even much louder acoustically.

PS - I totally agree with FrankieSixxxgun on the lubrication as well. Makes all the difference in the world. Even WD-40 on the Bigsby with pencil lead in the nut slots and on the saddles if you have a TOM. I just got some of this stuff from Stewart Mac that I'm going to try:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_sa...lubricant.html

Good luck!

Guys! You are a treasure trove of good information! I have the same problem and one of the sales people at the music store I shop at in Tustin, CA - Jim's Music - Awesome place and great people!!!!! told me that guitars and I are like women and me. The minute I find out they aren't what they are made out to be on ditch it and move on.

I have my 5120 in for a new bone nut and some grinding on the saddle. If this doesn't remedy the problem I am not inclined to go to the expense of a new set of tuners. I am far more likely to go with an Epiphone, which is something that a college student studying jazz can afford.

I am disappointed with the 5120. Do you think it is worth ditching it for another make and model?

[FThomas]

I should Write a jazz tune to go along with it, but think the titile is a bit close to many others. Maybe: My Nut Just AIn't in Tune with You Baby or
Tuner, Nut and Bridge - Where Will the Love Meet

Love and My Vibrato

OK now for a fast I IV V AA B A with a turnaround.

[HonkyTonkMichael]

Originally Posted by FThomas

Guys! You are a treasure trove of good information! I have the same problem and one of the sales people at the music store I shop at in Tustin, CA - Jim's Music - Awesome place and great people!!!!! told me that guitars and I are like women and me. The minute I find out they aren't what they are made out to be on ditch it and move on.

I have my 5120 in for a new bone nut and some grinding on the saddle. If this doesn't remedy the problem I am not inclined to go to the expense of a new set of tuners. I am far more likely to go with an Epiphone, which is something that a college student studying jazz can afford.

I am disappointed with the 5120. Do you think it is worth ditching it for another make and model?

FThomas:
Personally, I would never get rid of a Gretsch... If you take it to a luthier you can have those little problems fixed relatively cheap. I highly recommend a Compton bridge over getting the saddles ground... The grinding is to make them the correct radius for the fretboard, Comptons come in 9.5 and 12 in radius so you can get the right one for your guitar. They are very reasonably priced as well:

http://www.comptonbridges.com/home

Gretsches have a way different tone than other guitars, due to the combination of the pickups, woods used, and as mentioned above; the nut and bridge.

Again... Just my opinion.

[Knoxy]

My guitar was sounding bad for a while, thought it needed strings. Wouldn't stay in tune. I'd often heard of the #2 pencil repair. I lifted each string and rubbed the nut slots until black. It was better but not right. Did the same to the wooden bridge and success, sounded and played like a pro setup and new strings.

[dafreeze]

nuts...............auce

[S Macp]

Make your own guitar grease and/or nut sauce:

Mix graphite powder with vaseline for the grease, mix graphite powder with 3 in 1 for the sauce.

While doing this, it's important to wear a cowl and to chant lubricato Gretschum pro patria mori or somesuch. Perhaps throw in a bit of eye-rolling and swaying.

This helps with the idea that there's something magical about these recipes.

[Nails]

HOLY COW - How have I never heard of nut sauce.....
That is hillarious....
.............I really need to grow up.

[dafreeze]

I'm sure making it would be cheaper, but I don't go to the trouble. A little goes a long way. That little tube was...$20 I think, but it's lasted me 2 years and I've got....80 nut slots in the house. It's clear and is a perfect applicator. Just use care to wipe off the excess so you don't get it smeared all over.