Time to change Strings -- looking for a good link

DaveT · December 11th, 2009, 08:53 PM

Well, the 5120 is going out of tune daily, Ive not changed the strings yet (3 months of daily practice) so i guess thats why ?. Ill lube the nut while im at it.

I saw a link on here a while back with really good photos on how to bend the Strings at the Tuner to lock them in better. I cant seem to find it again.

can someone re post it for me.?

thanks folks

Synchro · December 11th, 2009, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveT

Well, the 5120 is going out of tune daily, Ive not changed the strings yet (3 months of daily practice) so i guess thats why ?. Ill lube the nut while im at it.

I saw a link on here a while back with really good photos on how to bend the Strings at the Tuner to lock them in better. I cant seem to find it again.

can someone re post it for me.?

thanks folks

This is what I could find: http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/stringing.htm

I take exception, however, to the notion that extra winds around the post do anything positive for tuning stability. Even without locking tuners I try to have less than one full turn on the post. The reason is that the extra wraps simply bind upon one another and are likely to reduce stability if anything.

charlie chitlins · December 11th, 2009, 11:20 PM

I find that with more windings it takes longer for ther strings to seat and stay in tune.
If you wind them evenly, though (no sloppy, crossed windings), the strings come off low on the post and you get more angle at the nut.
This might be a habit left over from Fenders, but it makes me feel better.
Over time you'll be able to estimate how much string to use so your windings end at the bottom.
Synchro has sung the praises of minimal wraps several times here.
I'm going to give it a whirl next string change.
Been at this for over 30 years...maybe I'll learn something new!

Synchro · December 11th, 2009, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charlie chitlins

I find that with more windings it takes longer for ther strings to seat and stay in tune.
If you wind them evenly, though (no sloppy, crossed windings), the strings come off low on the post and you get more angle at the nut.
This might be a habit left over from Fenders, but it makes me feel better.
Over time you'll be able to estimate how much string to use so your windings end at the bottom.
Synchro has sung the praises of minimal wraps several times here.
I'm going to give it a whirl next string change.
Been at this for over 30 years...maybe I'll learn something new!

The down pressure on the nut is certainly worthy of consideration but overall I'd have to say that when I quit using multiple wraps on the post restringing and tuning became a lot easier. My theory is that even when carefully wound the windings on the string tend to bind and cause the string to not give away it's pressure easily when de-tuned. If there's residual binding once the string is tuned to pitch it will eventually release causing the string to lose pitch. If there's less than one turn around the post this can't happen. My Strat came with Schaller locking tuners from the factory and the OEM strings bore almost zero wraps on the machine heads. I've restrung it that way ever since (with Jen-Yew-Wine Fender strings mind you) and it has great tuning stability. I mean I can leave it hanging for months without a drop in pitch. I understand the criticisms of locking tuners but I think that they may be somewhat misunderstood.

Jhundt · December 12th, 2009, 01:52 AM

http://www.gretschguitars.com/resources/techtips.html

YouTube- Gretsch Guitars - Tech Tips -...

Gretsch Guy · December 12th, 2009, 06:08 AM

Hello All, I too am due for a string change. While I'm at it I want to lube the nut. What should I use? Thanks, G.G.

Big Burly · December 12th, 2009, 09:32 AM

Big Bends Nut Sauce

Or

Chapstick (what I use)

Or

Pencil "lead" shavings. Rub the pencil point in the slot.

gigatron · December 12th, 2009, 10:19 AM

Graphite from a pencil. Cheap and it works.

Chaz · December 12th, 2009, 10:25 AM

I use a Mechanical lead (graphite) pencil. The point is much thinner to access all the nut slots. Works great...

Synchro · December 12th, 2009, 10:40 AM

Have lunch at KFC just before you change strings.

Sarah93003 · December 12th, 2009, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synchro

Have lunch at KFC just before you change strings.

That will work too. Last night my roommates boyfreind "surprised" us by having dinner ready since we had to work late. He made Hamburger Helper. Yay! He evidently did not read the instructions where it said to drain the grease from the hamburger.

Well, I didn't even need to reapply lip gloss after dinner as my lips were already shiny from all of the grease. The upside is that it was better than his last attempt at making macaroni and cheese to which he added a bunch of soy sauce. Bad idea! The man should stick to the grill, he shines on that one.

Scott · December 12th, 2009, 11:33 AM

This video on Youtube

is an excellent basic tutorial on how to wrap the strings on the post.

DaveT · December 12th, 2009, 04:51 PM

thanks ill try the web link, Cant access YouTube or Videos....im on Dial up

yep...thats the one I remember.

Thanks !!!

S Macp · December 12th, 2009, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gretsch Guy

Hello All, I too am due for a string change. While I'm at it I want to lube the nut. What should I use? Thanks, G.G.

I use a mix of graphite powder and 3-in-1 oil, which I use on the nut, bridge, and bigsby roller at each string change. (I figure that anywhere there's friction, is somewhere that needs lubrication.)

The oil/powder mix is effective, but I would definitely try one of the simpler options first - like the pencil. That way you're not buying special ingredients, nor a special container to keep the mix in... unless you dig all that ritual, of course.

vjf1968 · December 12th, 2009, 06:08 PM

I use lithium grease myself. I apply it to the nut with a very fine paint brush. I also apply it wherever the string comes in contact with metal.

Jhundt · December 13th, 2009, 04:02 AM

When I started playing I learned to string a guitar as shown in the video - wrapping the string back and under the first wind to "lock" it in place. After a few years I stopped with that method. I just stick it through the hole and wind. I do make sure to bend the short end firmly where it exits the post. And I use enough string for about two full winds around the post. Now it's been about 35 years and I have never experienced any string slip or lack of yuning stability. And I actually earned a living for several years as a road-crew guitar tech.

I noticed that my Gretsch 5129 came from the factory with strings mounted the same way I do it, without that extra loop/lock bit.

Lizardkinged · December 13th, 2009, 04:54 AM

in my opinion, 1 winding is cutting it close. 2 is for good measure. and three is pushing it over the line. The comfortable medium is between 1 full wind and close to 2 pending brands, string material and sizes.

Generally I put it through tight, pull the string from the nut towards the bridge someplace in the first fret. Then bend up the short end, and start winding. This usually makes for consistent winds around the post. and remember NO CROSS WINDING.

After you get one turn, PULL the string gently, but firm (we all play guitar and know what it means to be gentle and firm) towards the bridge and continue to wind slowly and carefully until in tune. I also stretch and pull on them, then re-tune. I repeat this step until I'm satisfied with heavy pitch bends and trem dives.

Sure its a little extra stress for the initial setup, But c'mon your going to bend and beat them with plastic or your fingers, take them off and do it all over again.