With T-I 11 flats, where do you find it best to place the floating bridge in relation to the f-hole cut out? Guess a pic might be the best explanation.

What guitar? On a 5120 placing the bridge plate dead center on the f holes will get you in the ballpark. The little flares in the center of the f holes should be pointing to the center of the bridge base like this

> ------ <

From there you can fine tune the Es by ear or with a tuner.

hmm.. if you intonate your guitar at the same time you change the bridge,you will know where to put it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrqmphYj6Lk
this might be helpful :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrqmphYj6Lk
this might be helpful :-)

yeah that is great

What guitar? On a 5120 placing the bridge plate dead center on the f holes will get you in the ballpark. The little flares in the center of the f holes should be pointing to the center of the bridge base like this

> ------ <

From there you can fine tune the Es by ear or with a tuner.


Yes, 5120. Notice many will slant the bridge slightly, which I do. Others will do it almost straight across, some above the f-hole center; most seem to favor the middle giving it a bit below the center. In any event, is there a rule of thumb with flatwounds which would change how you might set the bridge?

Ignore the f-holes.

Measure from the nut to the 12th fret. Write down this measurement-- for example, 12.3 inches.
Now place the bridge exactly 12.3 inches (or whatever your nut-12th fret measurement is) from the 12th fret.

Check your intonation, and tweak bridge placement as needed.

done.

What tartanphantom said.
Pop's

+1 each to ampe (GretschGutars.com>Blog menu>Video>Tech Tip Videos) and Tartanphantom (distance between nut and bridge = twice the distance from nut to 12th fret).

Pops gets +1 just for being Pops.

-OpenMike

+1 each to ampe (GretschGutars.com>Blog menu>Video>Tech Tip Videos) and Tartanphantom (distance between nut and bridge = twice the distance from nut to 12th fret).

Pops gets +1 just for being Pops.

-OpenMike

OK, that's the way it's set. Now, to slant or not to slant, that is the question.

OK, that's the way it's set. Now, to slant or not to slant, that is the question.

That's where setting the proper intonation comes in. What kind of bridge is it? If it is a bar bridge or a space control bridge, you set the intonation for both E strings--this usually results in some slanting (unless it's a Compton bridge). If it's a tune-o-matic or melita bridge, you will usually have enough saddle adjustment range to prevent slanting.

Roosto, I hope I am not just stating the obvious. The placement of a floating bridge is totally determined by the correct intonation of the guitar. (The note created on the 12 fret must be one octave above the note created by the string when it is not fretted.) If the bridge is not placed correctly the guitar cannot be tuned.

The video that Ampe posted shows how to intonate. Whether the bridge should be slanted or not will depend solely upon the intonation of the high E string and the low E string.

Ignore the f-holes.

Measure from the nut to the 12th fret. Write down this measurement-- for example, 12.3 inches.
Now place the bridge exactly 12.3 inches (or whatever your nut-12th fret measurement is) from the 12th fret.

Check your intonation, and tweak bridge placement as needed.

done.

The equidistant point just happens to be exactly in line with the f-hole center flares on the 5120. Not necessarily true with every guitar. If my bridge happens to come loose while changing strings or pickups, I don't need to measure to get it back in the right spot. I just line it up with the flares. At that point it just needs a wee bit of touch up to the intonation. Just sayin'.

The equidistant point just happens to be exactly in line with the f-hole center flares on the 5120. Not necessarily true with every guitar. If my bridge happens to come loose while changing strings or pickups, I don't need to measure to get it back in the right spot. I just line it up with the flares. At that point it just needs a wee bit of touch up to the intonation. Just sayin'.

Yes, the F-hole guide trick does work on many Gretsch models, but not on all. this is why I prefer the measurement method.

The equidistant point just happens to be exactly in line with the f-hole center flares on the 5120. Not necessarily true with every guitar. If my bridge happens to come loose while changing strings or pickups, I don't need to measure to get it back in the right spot. I just line it up with the flares. At that point it just needs a wee bit of touch up to the intonation. Just sayin'.

Yeah, seems to be just a tad below.