OK, this is a dumb question, but as I grow out of my Pedalboard Mini and move to a larger board, laying the pedals out on the board becomes more challenging. On the Mini, with just one "row", it's easy.

So, using a larger board (in this case a Trailer Trash 18" x 16" board), do I try to do it in two sequential rows, as shown here (but then I have to use an 18 or 24" cable to run from the Box of Rock in lower left to the Dyno in upper right)
http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss300/bgraubart/board1.jpg

Or, do I kind of run them up & down, to minimize the use of any patch cables longer than 12", as shown here:
http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss300/bgraubart/board2.jpg

Another option would be a U shape, but then the top row would all have their inputs facing the wrong way.
Or is there an obvious solution I'm just not considering?

I would suggest putting the Dyno Brain before everything else (as it is a preamp, not an effect) and having the chorus and delay last. Other than that just experiment with what sounds best to you...for ex, if you ever play with both your OD's on at the same time, they will sound a bit different depending which on is first in the chain. The tuner can really go anywhere.

Thanks, Michael, but to clarify, this isn't a pedal order question, but really a cabling question.

As for the Dyno, it was actually Tavo's suggestion to put it after the OD's and doing so eliminated the hiss I had been getting.

Thanks, Michael, but to clarify, this isn't a pedal order question, but really a cabling question.

As for the Dyno, it was actually Tavo's suggestion to put it after the OD's and doing so eliminated the hiss I had been getting.

Ahh.... I see. Wups, I guess I didn't read your post very closely. Tavo would definitely know where to put a Dyno Brain. :D Personally, I would go the second route then. I'm going to a bigger pedalboard and will have a similar problem here when it shows up.

I faced the same problem a couple of weeks ago. I decided to go with the first setup you show but mine starts at the top row not that it makes a difference. I just found that this setup was alot neater.

I suggest not using a hissy overdrive and keep the Dynobrain next to the pickups. haha! :) :)

but if Paul Pigat sez its best after the Box of Rock and CS-2 compressor.. who is to argue
n'est pas? That canadian sounds great with how he set things up.

ps. I like set up version "A", as long as that longer patch cable is something like george L or mogami and is hard soldered you are golden.

I need to find a decent long cable aswell, all my little ones are good but the signal gets killed with my cheapo 12" cable

I just ordered the Lava Cable kit for my new board. I've never used them before, but I hear that they are as good as George L's... I guess I'll find out!

You can see mine below, didn't take long for it to look abit messy. I also prefer my compressor infront of my brains.
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/falzoony/Gretsch%206120-1960/P7310416.jpg

man... 2 brains? you must get all the chicks

When I've got my Nocturne t-shirt on I'm more popular with the ladies then Elvis! On another note are you still planning a fuzz pedal?

George L cables work great...I would not worry about a 24" length with them.

They can be challanging to assemble but the trick is to cut the end straight with an X-acto knife (sissors and wire cutters do not work well)

This link shows how to assemble them (the little stress relief cap is not needed and is actually a pain)


http://www.georgelsstore.com/faq.html

In-song changes nearest my feet, between-song changes, form an orderly line.

If I had a fancy slanted pedal board (as opposed to a carpeted tray), I'd drill through the base and run the cables underneath the pedals.

Not that I've stomped on a pedal since March. F*****g tendonitis.

I would say forget the order that they appear on the board, put them in the series you desire, but up and down like in the second photo. just keep the order technically correct.

I realize that cable length can have an overall impact on tone but for my own board (10 total pedals... I can include a pic later) I did a bit of a compromise between order, cable length, and accessibility. There are some pedals that I need to find in the middle of a song and, since I'm also the main vocalist, I've got to stay on the mic and looking down at my board usually pulls me away from it. The pedals I use in the middle of songs are mostly in the front and the ones that are usually on or off for an entire song get moved up to the top row. May not be the best compromise but it has worked out well for me.

All with George L's and I solder my own 1/4 inch for the long runs to the amp.

George L cables work great...I would not worry about a 24" length with them.

They can be challanging to assemble but the trick is to cut the end straight with an X-acto knife (sissors and wire cutters do not work well)

This link shows how to assemble them (the little stress relief cap is not needed and is actually a pain)


http://www.georgelsstore.com/faq.html

Nooo... screw those waiting to fail on you george L ends.. take George L cable and use these with good solder on the george L's. (thats where George tries to take all your money anyway haha)

http://www.audiogear.com/Resources/SwcrSW236.jpg

In-song changes nearest my feet, between-song changes, form an orderly line.

If I had a fancy slanted pedal board (as opposed to a carpeted tray), I'd drill through the base and run the cables underneath the pedals.

Not that I've stomped on a pedal since March. F*****g tendonitis.

That is exactly how I set up my boards too....I put my OD pedals, one or two effects, and boost up front where I can easily get to them, and everything else in the second row.

Nooo... screw those waiting to fail on you george L ends.. take George L cable and use these with good solder on the george L's. (thats where George tries to take all your money anyway haha)

http://www.audiogear.com/Resources/SwcrSW236.jpg

+1000

I ALWAYS solder connections when I can....which is almost all the time. Even when I do home or car audio stuff. I've got a few nice Weller irons and stations and they are worth every dollar I paid for them.

I agree with TV the Wired Turtle. Use setup A but with a good cable. Try to patch everything with George L's. He sells a kit that you can cut to fit for your pedal board, board will end up neater.

Nooo... screw those waiting to fail on you george L ends.. take George L cable and use these with good solder on the george L's. (thats where George tries to take all your money anyway haha)

http://www.audiogear.com/Resources/SwcrSW236.jpg

I admit they are proud of their connectors but I have always had good luck with them.

how can those little patch cables affect your sound?
i just use stagg ones because i never really bothered

how can those little patch cables affect your sound?
i just use stagg ones because i never really bothered

Your tone is kinda like a sports team. It can only be as good as the weekest player. If you have a crappy (Not saying that yours are crappy) cable or tone sucking pedal anywhere in the chain, then everything sounds like crap.

+1 @ HonkyTonkMichael.

As a general rule you should stay away from those cheap colored patch cables, they are crap. Cheap and poorly made cables will introduce hiss and unwanted noise in your sound and they are usually susceptible to outside interference.

whats a team player? Sports? ...is that kinda like a bandmate and gigs? :)

whats a team player? Sports? ...is that kinda like a bandmate and gigs? :)

Yup... That's a better analogy. So forget the sports one and here's a more pertinent comparison:

"Your tone is kinda like a band. You're only as good as your worst player. You can have all the best cats in the world, but if one person is outta tune or is singing off key then the whole band sucks."

how can those little patch cables affect your sound?
i just use stagg ones because i never really bothered

To be more specific, since "killing your tone" isn't very descriptive, cheap cabling can introduce unwanted noise. Also, the capacitance in the cable can attenuate frequencies making the sound more muffled sounding.